Today has been an awesome day, not because I got lots done, not because the weather was great, because I didn’t get much done today, and the weather was rainy and grey all day. But because I took chances, pushed my comfort zone and ended up on top.
Spent the morning surfing out at piha with a friend, who took me under his wing and basically chucked me in the deep end..
Amongst my beginners lesson to surfing from a friend I was surrounded by what looked like 3 to 4 metre waves, they were huge. Dispite having a blast and learning lots, I still managed to find myself between a rock and a hard place, literally. Kept my cool, stayed calm and got myself out of a sticky situation. And then continued to surf the meduim waves, and just have some fun away from the rocks.
Looking back I probably shouldn’t of been out the back of piha with the big boy waves, but at the end of the day, I’m happy with how I handled myself and happy with the progress i made.
Surfing update: still a beginner
- I’m grateful for a fun time surfing.
- I’m grateful for making the most of a rainy day.
- I’m grateful for the 2 course meal I cooked for dinner, ( pizza breads and Thai green chicken curry).